Our House on the Sea - Naša Kuća Na Moru

A lifetime ago, after graduating from university and teaching for a year, I had an opportunity to play hockey in Europe.  It was 1985, a year after the XIV Olympic Winter Games in Sarajevo, and ice hockey was becoming very popular in the former Yugoslavia.  Like countless former Canadian junior, college and minor pro level players, I had hoped to go over, play for a year and travel and see the continent.  I ended up living for long stretches of 1985 to 1988 in Zagreb and enjoyed playing three memorable seasons for a team called the Medveščak Bears.  It was a life changing experience.  I  got to live in an interesting city during an incredible time of history, travel all over Europe, including "Eastern Bloc" nations that no longer exist like Czechoslovakia and East Germany, form some great some friendships and meet my wife, Andrea.   

Fast forward thirty years and we have established our lives in our beloved country of Canada. However, like millions of Canadians, our lives have been enriched by our cross-cultural experiences.  We have two adult children who both speak Croatian (my Hrvatski is mostly limited to ordering hladno pivo) and we retain roots in the old country by way of a house on the Adriatic Sea. Both kids have visited Croatia on their own and with friends, and we have been back many times. Each visit, I learn to understand and love the place a little bit more.

Croatia is no longer an unknown destination as everyone in the European Union (Croatia joined the E.U. on July 1, 2013) is well aware of the magic of the Dalmatian coast along the pristine Adriatic Sea.  Places like Dubrovnik, Hvar, Trogir, Split, Pula, Šibenek, Korčula, Rovinj and the incredible sailing amongst the thousand small islands along the coast are increasingly well known all over the world.  If you’re travelling to Europe in the future and it is not already on your list of must-see places, I fully recommend a stop in Croatia. Of course the downsides to being a popular travel destination and EU membership are more western franchises and amenities, tons of tourists and rising prices; however, the country and beautiful coastline are still very much worth your time.

Croatia - population 4.5 million 

Croatians are rarely in a hurry.  Living on the sea, this becomes even more evident.  The temperature is typically in the low 30s from May through September and the pace of life reflects the heat.  People do what they need to do, in the pace by which it will get done.  If we need to have a break, eat a little, enjoy a coffee, a glass of wine or a cold beer, this is what we will do.  Social interaction through getting together to drink something and talk for an hour or more is a normal part of every day life.  For someone like me, who has type-A, workaholic tendencies, every visit to Croatia is like therapy and this summer (2019) we enjoyed another six weeks on the Adriatic Sea.

Our small home is on the island of Cres (pronounced Sress; roll the r, and think Csar).  Cres is a narrow archipelago accessible by a 30-minute ferry ride from the island of Krk, along the north part of the Croatian coast, just a little more than two hours from the capital city of Zagreb.  We typically stay on our little island most of the summer, but trips to other popular  cities and towns are easily accessible by car (Dubrovnik is only 500km south) and the ideal way to travel the Croatian Adriatic would be by renting or hiring a sailboat. 

Andrea’s father was an architect and he designed and built the unique, triangular shaped house in 1971 to avoid cutting down the indigenous trees on the lot.  Surrounded by lavender, rosemary, grape vines and fir, olive, fig and plum trees, the home is situated on a hill, a few hundred steps from the sea and offers a spectacular view of the bay and the red tile roofs of nearby homes.

Our home....sleeps 6....a couple more in a pinch.

The morning view from our small second floor balcony.

The same view each evening at sunset, still at least 25 degrees.

The small town of Cres (population 3000) is a ten minute walk away.  The old town was established before Roman rule (the Italian border is less than two hours away and Venice is about four hours away) and features narrow Venetian-style, cobblestone streets, centuries old city walls and doors, piazzas and churches. Also nearby is the very modern ACI Cres marina, juxtaposing hundreds of large and luxurious yachts with the simpler life of the local villagers.  Indeed, contemporary Croatia is a blend of western-style marketing, shopping and modern freeways and small, simple villages and crumbling one-lane roads that meander down implausible slopes to the sea.

Tower (Kula) in the old town...part of the 16th century city walls.

One of two gates to the Old Town of Cres (recently restored)

Narrow old town streets in Cres.

The inner harbour of Cres featuring small, local fishing boats

More of the old town of Cres on the inner harbour. Over 20 restaurants and cafes within 600 meters.

Dry stone steps, walls and olive trees found all over the Croatian coast.

Some shells discovered snorkelling just offshore at a nearby beach.

Stone walls drop down into the sea - note the colour of the Adriatic!

The island is home to internationally renowned olive oils (maslinovo ulje) and the undulating land is covered by ancient stone walls (suhozid) built without using mortar, that stretch from the sea to the highest points all over the island.  The stone walls protect small terraces so that the rocky soil does not wash into the sea.  The dry rock fences also help shepherd the sheep that are raised all over the island.

Our days here follow a routine of getting up when we awaken, eating breakfast and deciding on which beach to visit on the day.   The Adriatic Sea in Croatia is clean, clear and warm.  The beaches are not the long sandy stretches people in North America are most familiar with, but rocky shorelines with crystal clear, warm water, ideal for swimming or snorkelling.   We try to blend active days of hikes and bike rides with lazy days filled with reading and relaxing in the sun and swimming in the sea. The warm air, fresh breeze and clean sea make every day here a gift.

A great climbing hike near the tiny town of Beli shares beautiful views of the Island of Cres. This is 20 minutes from our little home.

From our home, it is quick walk to the sea and we can visit several of the local beaches or take a short drive to other small villages and countless beach areas on either side of the island.  There are popular, crowded beaches with all the amenities (e.g. parasailing, paddle boats, SUPs, kayak rentals, etc.) but with a boat or a hike, one can readily find totally secluded spots to enjoy a quiet day by the sea as well.  With a snorkel and mask, the visibility of the warm sea (25 degrees) is remarkable and many fishes, rocks and shells wait to be discovered.  If you are lucky, as we have been a couple of times on boat trips to a favourite beach, you may even see dolphins.

We watched a pod of 20 dolphins for 15 minutes on this lucky day.

A couple of jumpers...

A mom and her pup or calf.   

We always pack a lot of water to stay hydrated and fresh, local fruits (e.g. figs, plums, etc.), tomatoes, cheeses, prosciutto (pršut) and bread to snack on during the day.  We head back in the late afternoon and jump in the outside shower – another simple but joyous routine on the warm island (we have a modern bathroom inside the house as well, but typically use only the toilet in the summer). We then prepare a dinner of fresh meat or fish (from the deli or fish market, and often cooked on the barbecue) with pasta or new potatoes, accompanied by a cold bean, mixed or tomato, onion and pepper salad and a cold beer or a glass of wine. Croatian beer (pivo) is good and the local wines have a growing international reputation for excellence. There is also the option of wandering into town a little later to eat at one of the many outdoor restaurants, featuring freshly caught fish and other local specialties (fire roasted young pig or lamb) or thin crust pizza that would be the envy of any Italian. There is something about being outside all day that enhances your appetite and makes even simple, fresh meals incredibly enjoyable and delicious.

Something for everyone on the grill: sausage, chicken, pork, beef, čevapčići and fresh fish.  Dobar Tek!

Pizza with prosciutto and mushrooms (pršut i gljive) - delicious!

In the evening, it cools down slightly, but is often still in the mid 20s overnight.  We typically go for a long walk and then sit around our outside dining area and talk or play cards or a board game.  Later, we may walk into town to enjoy a latte (bijela kava) or cappuccino or some delicious handmade gelato (sladoled) or hot crepes (palačinke) with chocolate at one of the busy cafés along the waterfront.  We rarely watch television and I do my best to avoid the lure of the ubiquitous WiFi on most days.

The next day, we do it all over again. It is a very good life.

Some fresh local selections from the morning fish market in Cres.

Relaxing on a boat cruise to a secluded beach.

The view of the Bay of Cres, the modern marina in foreground and the old town in the background. Our home is in between.

p.s. If the amateurish quality didn't give it away, with the exception of the map, all of the photographs were taken by me.

A Dog's Life

When my children were eight and ten years old, we welcomed a new member to our family with the introduction of a black Labrador puppy.  He was a promise for our daughter, who began persistently pleading for a dog by about the age of four and her younger brother soon joined the negotiations.  Together, they make a persuasive team, but the kids learned that a dog was a “big responsibility” and that we would get a dog on sister’s tenth birthday.  We lived up to the promise. 

I had dogs as a kid and believe that a home is not really a home without a dog, especially for children.  Rocky was an integral part of our family and our children grew up with him.  We walked with him several times every day, played with him, threw thousands of sticks for him, swam with him, went camping with him and loved him.  He was always in the middle of every gathering of our family and was a great listener and observer of people.  He supervised the preparation of every meal and, like a sous-chef, he watched carefully and was always willing to help with tastings or to clean up spills.

My three children

Active and healthy and blessed with a beautifully shiny coat and a friendly disposition, Rocky died suddenly this past spring.  He was not quite 11 years old. This piece is not about the sorrow that goes with the loss of a beloved family member.  Unfortunately, most of us know how this feels and understand that grief is sad and complex, but that it is part of life. Intellectually, I accept that Rocky was a family pet and a dog, yet emotionally, I was surprised by the incredible vacuum that he left in our lives.  I miss him most in the mornings as we shared this time together.  As the first up each day, we had the house to ourselves and our routines became an integral part of my day.  In the recent stillness of my mornings, I have been reflecting on what Rocky gave me.

He taught me that every day is a great day.  He lived with enthusiasm and wore his heart on his sleeve.  He greeted all human beings openly and the people he loved with unfettered joy and happiness, each and every time he saw them.  He taught me that you can communicate best by listening and observing people and allowing them to tell their story. You do not need to speak or offer an opinion to be a loyal friend.    Just by being available, and perhaps going for a walk, people often work out their own problems. He taught me to appreciate the joy that exists in the simplest things in life; going for a walk, having a nap in the warm sun, being curious about all new things and the importance of checking out old things you haven’t seen in a while. Rocky enriched all of our lives and brought us closer together as a family and we are all better people for having known him.

I can't get out of the lake yet, its only been two hours...

Lots have been said and written about dogs, by authors, musicians, poets, presidents and movie stars.  Man’s best friend.  A dog is the only thing that loves you more than he loves himself. If there are no dogs in heaven, then when I die, I want to go where they went.  I hope to be half the person my dog thinks I am. If you have a dog, you know all of this to be true.  If you do not know dogs, you may think this is overly sentimental and that is probably your loss. If you don't own a dog, at least one, there is not necessarily anything wrong with you, but there may be something wrong with your life.  

To honour our dog's memory, I will do my best to begin each day with enthusiasm and optimism and greet those that I love with unfiltered warmth and joy.  Like all dogs, I think Rocky was on to something good.

Rocky...

A sincere thank you to my good friend, Dr. Grant Cumberbirch and the Amherst Veterinary Hospital in Vancouver for their incredibly professional and empathetic care of our beloved dog.  They handled Rocky's passing with remarkable professionalism, dignity and grace.  

My Summer Wishes

It has been another very busy and rewarding year serving as principal for a larger suburban public high school and I feel privileged to work alongside the remarkable students and staff at our school.     Our students have grown and benefited from an incredible array of engaging and challenging learning experiences, several of which they have initiated or led.  Our graduates will be moving on to new and exciting challenges while many of our younger students will continue to learn in July and August, by attending academic summer school classes or by volunteering or working part time. 

My wish is that all students also have the opportunity to be a kid and get outside to play and have fun. The rising costs of post-secondary learning and the urgency many B.C. secondary students feel to compile service hours, add credentials and build their GPA during the summer are troubling. While I fully support community service, part-time work, flexible learning schedules and new ways of designing school calendars, I also believe in the idea of kids enjoying unstructured time in the summer.  Some of the happiest memories (and best learning experiences) I have are from building forts, catching frogs, running through the sprinkler, camping, going to the beach or, on my bike, with my friends, setting out in the morning and exploring all day. Learning is not limited to school and course work and there is no better time to be a child or a teenager than in the summer.

As I reflect on the past year, I am very impressed by the dedication of our teachers and support staff.  Many staff have been reflecting on their professional work, particularly their assessment practices.  Courses are increasingly organized around learning outcomes and students are provided with feedback and multiple opportunities to self-assess, revise and improve their performance.   Coming off of a full year of political unrest in public education, the professionalism of teachers and support staff remains remarkable.  For every educator that puts in their time and is content to just get by, there are twenty who are actively trying to improve their craft in a genuine effort to engage students more deeply and authentically in their learning.  Those that pour their hearts into teaching and supporting kids and go the extra mile by offering personalized learning support, coaching teams, sponsoring clubs and student activities are extraordinary.  You are making a tremendous difference in the professional culture of our schools and are inspiring and enriching the lives of our students.

My wish is that all teachers and support staff are able to enjoy time with their families in July and August. I know that many will read a few good books and spend some time revising their courses or completing a university program to improve their professional practice.  If they choose to work, I hope it is not out of necessity, just to help make ends meet living in the Lower Mainland.  Yours is complex, challenging and important work, and I hope you are able to rest, rejuvenate and recharge this summer.

As both the B.C. Teachers’ and CUPE support staff contracts have expired, we need thoughtful and skilled leadership from the decision makers in our province.  It is imperative they model the intellectual, personal and social skills we expect of our students.  As outlined in the new Ministry of Education cross-curricular competencies document, it is time to look at things from different perspectives and bring a holistic and unifying approach to collective agreements.  

My wish is that the very capable people working for the Provincial Government and the provincial teachers’ and support staff unions are able to honestly and respectfully work out fair agreements. Agreements that emanate out of mutual respect and recognition of both the economic realities of our province and the critical importance of investing in sustaining the very best public education possible for our young people.

My wish is that the summer provides a well-deserved break and we all return energized and ready to engage in a positive working and learning environment and are provided the mandate to do what we love – teach, learn, motivate, inspire, care for, challenge and engage with the young people of British Columbia and help them learn, grow and prepare for their futures. 

Have a great summer.